PHU QUOC ISLAND

Mountainous and forested Phu Quoc island is in the Gulf of Thailand, 45 km west of Ha Tien, and 15 km south of the coast of Cambodia. This tear shaped island, which is 48km long and has an area of 1320 sq km, is ringed with some of the most beautiful beaches in Vietnam. There are fantastic views of marine life through transparent blue green waters. Phu Quoc is governed as a district of Kien Giang province.

Phu Quoc island served as a base for the French missionary Pigneau de Behaine during the 1760s and 80s. Prince Nguyen Anh, later Emperor Gia Long, was sheltered here by Behaine when he was being hunted by the Tay Son rebels. During the American War there was a little fighting here, but Phu Quoc island was mainly useful to the Americans as a prison for captured persons. Phu Quoc is not really part of Mekong Delta, and does not share the delta’s extraordinary ability to produce rice. The most valuable crop is black pepper but the islanders have traditionally earned their living from the sea. Phu Quoc is also well known in Vietnam for its production of high quality fish sauce.

The island is also known for Phu Quoc hunting dogs. The dogs have been a great success – with their help, the islanders have decimated most of the island’s wildlife. These dogs are said to be able to pick up the scent of their master from over 1 km away.

Phu Quoc island can be easily reached by either airplane or speedboat from the land.

The weather of Phu Quoc is generally pleasant, mild and there are 2 different seasons which are rainy season and dry season. The rainy season is from May to October. And the dry season from October to April. The peak season for tourism is mid – Winter when the sky is blue and the sea is calm, however when it is not raining, it’s stinking hot.

Duong Dong

The island’s chief fishing port is Duong Dong, a town on the central west coast of the island. The Phu Quoc airport and most of the hotels are here. The town is not that exciting, though the markets are mildly interesting. The bridge nearby is a good vantage point to take a photo of the island’s fishing fleet. You will notice that the tiny harbour is anything but clean. According to tourist brochures, the town’s main attraction is Cau castle as a combination temple and lighthouse. It was built in 1973 to honor Thien Hau, Goddess of the Sea who protects sailors and fisher folk. The castle is worth a quick look, and it does give you a good view of the entrance to the harbour.

Fish Sauce Factory

It is not your average sightseeing attraction but some have enjoyed a visit to the distillery of Nuoc Mam Hung Thanh, the largest of Phu Quoc’s fish sauce makers. At the first glance, the giant wooden vats may make you think you have arrived for a wine tasting, but one sniff of the festering Nuoc Mam essence brings you right back to reality. Most of the sauce produced is exported to the mainland for domestic consumption, though a surprising amount finds its way abroad to kitchens in Japan, the USA, Canada and France. The factory is short walk from the markets in Duong Dong. There is no charge to visit, though you would be best off taking a guide along unless you speak Vietnamese.

An Thoi

The main shipping port is An Thoi at the southern tip of the island. The town is not blessed with scenic sights, though the market is worth a quick look. This is the embarkation point for Ha Tien and Rach Gia, or for a day trip to the An Thoi island.

Beaches

Bai Dai in the far north – west and Bai Thom on the north-east coast are remote beaches and will require a motorbike ride of at least an hour over the road. You can rest assured that neither beach is crowded. Both are in military areas – the military opens these beaches to civillians on Sunday.

Long Beach is one long spectacular strech of san from Duong Dong southward along the west coast almost to An Thoi port. The southern end of the beach is known as Tau Ru Bay. The water is crystal clear and the beach is lined with coconut palms. Long Beach is easily accessible on foot but you will want a motorbike or bicycle to reach some of the remote stretches towards the southern end of the island.

Bai Khem

The most beautiful white sand beach of all is Bai Khem, meaning “cream beach”. The name is inspired by the creamy white sand, which resembles powdered chalk. The only shortcoming is that the beach lacks shade. There are no trees here. The beach is in a cove at the south-eastern part of the island. This place is totally undeveloped because it is a military area, but civilians are permitted to enter.

Bai Sao & Bai Dam

Along the south east part of the island just north of Bai Khem are 2 other beaches, Bai Sao and Bai Dam.

Bai Cua Can

This is the most accessible beach in the north west. Bai Cua Can is 11 km from Duong Dong, though it is a rather long dusty trip by motorbike.

Forest Reserves

Phu Quoc’s poor soil and lack of surface water have disappointed  farmers for generations, although their grief has been the island’s environment salvation. About 90% of the island is forested, and the trees now enjoy official protection. Indeed, this is the last large stand of forest in the southern Vietnam. The forest is most dense in the mountainous northern half of the island. This area has been declared a Forest Reserve.

An Thoi Islands

Off the southern tip of Phu Quoc are the tiny An Thoi islands. There 15 islands and islets can be visited by chartered boat, and it is a fine area for sightseeing, fishing, swimming and snorkelling. Hon Thom is about 3 km in length and is the largest island in the group. Other islands include Hon Dua, Hon Roi, Hon Vang, Hon May, Hon Dam, Chan Qui, Hon Mong Tay. Most boats depart from An Thoi on Phu Quoc, but you can make arrangements through  hotels in Duong Dong.

Ong Lang Beach

7 km north of Duong Dong near the hamlet of Ong Lang, is rockier and less beautiful then Long Beach but is unquestionably less crowded and quieter.